Few cities come into their own quite like Cambridge in autumn. Honey-coloured stone, centuries-old college courtyards and cobbled streets are softened by turning leaves, while punts continue to glide along the River Cam beneath bridges and gardens glowing in shades of amber and gold.
At the centre of it all sits The Varsity Hotel & Spa, tucked away on Thompson’s Lane beside the river and within easy walking distance of many of Cambridge’s most celebrated sights. It is an unusually good base for discovering the city: spend the morning wandering through historic colleges, the afternoon punting along the Cam and the evening high above the rooftops with a cocktail in hand. And this autumn, one of The Varsity’s most atmospheric experiences has returned.
The Varsity Cambridge Rooftop Domes Return
The Varsity Hotel & Spa has brought its heated rooftop domes back for the colder months, transforming its celebrated roof terrace into a collection of private little hideaways overlooking the Cambridge skyline.
Available from October, the igloo-style domes accommodate between one and eight people and allow guests to eat and drink beneath the stars without surrendering to the British weather.
There is something particularly lovely about Cambridge viewed from above. Church spires and college towers punctuate the skyline while centuries of architectural history unfold beneath you. The Varsity’s rooftop is already known for its far-reaching views across the city, while SIX, its sixth-floor restaurant immediately below, looks towards the River Cam and colleges including St John’s, Trinity, Jesus and Magdalene.
Inside the domes, however, the experience becomes considerably more intimate. Heated and protected from the elements, each one creates its own private dining room in the sky. It makes them an inspired Cambridge date-night idea, but equally a lovely way to celebrate a birthday, gather the family, host friends or simply make an ordinary autumn lunch feel considerably more special. Guests can settle in while food and drinks are brought directly to the dome, leaving little reason to abandon the view.
Dinner Above Cambridge
The rooftop domes serve the menu from SIX Brasserie, The Varsity’s relaxed all-day restaurant. The food has been designed to cover everything from a casual lunch to a proper celebratory dinner. Truffle and Parmesan arancini, tempura prawns, lamb samosas and whole burrata offer tempting ways to begin, while mains range from crispy pork belly and chicken Milanese to Woodstone roasted salmon.
Those craving something richer can head towards the grill for an 8oz prime fillet steak, lobster roll or SIX burger, while the Beyond Meat Plant Burger provides a meat-free alternative. A newer pasta menu adds dishes including Calabrian sausage rigatoni, prawn and chilli linguine and ravioli di zucca, accompanied by freshly prepared sauces.
And Sundays have their own appeal. The brasserie serves a traditional roast with options including slow-cooked roast beef, roasted Norfolk half chicken and roasted pork belly, the sort of lunch that feels particularly appropriate when eaten inside a warm dome overlooking an autumnal Cambridge.
SIX itself sits at the top of the hotel and centres much of its appeal around those panoramic city views, alongside dishes from its Wood Stone oven, grill and rotisserie.
Afternoon Tea with a Skyline View
For something slower, the domes can also turn afternoon tea into an occasion. Available during the afternoon, traditional finger sandwiches and intricately made cakes arrive against a backdrop considerably more dramatic than the average tearoom.
It is a particularly charming option for couples, mothers and daughters, friends or visiting family — cosy enough to feel private while still being suspended above one of England’s most beautiful cities.
Standard dome hire is £45, rising to £85 for Saturday evening dinner reservations and £95 for Christmas Day and New Year’s Eve. The domes can be booked Tuesday to Sunday.
A Hotel Made for Exploring Cambridge
The Varsity’s biggest advantage may ultimately be its location. Cambridge is a city best discovered slowly and, from the hotel, much of it can be explored on foot. The tightly packed historic centre brings together medieval streets, college architecture, green spaces and the River Cam within a relatively compact area.
The University of Cambridge has shaped the city for more than eight centuries, and its colleges remain inseparable from the Cambridge experience.
King’s College is perhaps the most instantly recognisable. Founded by Henry VI in 1441, it is dominated by the magnificent King’s College Chapel, one of the great achievements of late Gothic architecture. Inside are its extraordinary fan-vaulted ceiling, 16th-century stained glass and carved choir stalls, while outside the grounds open towards the River Cam and the famous Backs.
Continue exploring and Cambridge seems to reveal another postcard scene around every corner. At St John’s College, the Bridge of Sighs crosses the river beneath neo-Gothic stonework; at Queens’ College, the Mathematical Bridge creates one of the city’s most photographed views. Then there are Trinity, Magdalene, Clare and Jesus – each contributing another layer to a city whose architecture tells hundreds of years of academic history.
Of course, one of the best ways to see them remains from the water. Punting along the River Cam gives an entirely different perspective on the colleges, drifting through the Backs beneath bridges and past immaculate lawns inaccessible from many of the surrounding streets. It is touristy for a reason.
Art, History and Cambridge Institutions
Cambridge is about considerably more than the university. The Fitzwilliam Museum is one of the city’s essential stops, housing more than half a million objects ranging from Ancient Egyptian artefacts and medieval illuminated manuscripts to paintings, sculpture and modern and contemporary art, all within its monumental Grade I-listed building. Admission to the permanent museum remains free.
Elsewhere, stop at the Corpus Clock to watch the extraordinary Chronophage – or “time-eater” – devour the passing minutes, or head to The Eagle, the historic pub associated with the announcement of the discovery of the structure of DNA and with RAF airmen during the Second World War.
The pleasure of Cambridge, though, often comes from the spaces between the landmarks: old bookshops, narrow lanes, bicycles rushing past ancient stone walls, independent cafés and glimpses of college courtyards through open gates. It is a city made for wandering.
Spa Time at The Varsity
Eventually, The Varsity provides a welcome reason to stop. Its spa sits close to the river and offers a Jacuzzi, sauna, steam room, gym, fitness classes and Elemis treatments, allowing a city break to incorporate a little genuine downtime. Hotel guests can also make use of complimentary bicycles — particularly fitting in a city where cycling is almost part of the landscape.
That combination is what makes The Varsity Hotel & Spa such an appealing Cambridge base. There is history outside the door, the river moments away, some of the world’s most famous academic architecture within walking distance and, when exploring is finished, a spa waiting below and cocktails above. But during autumn, it is those glowing rooftop domes that provide the finishing touch.
Wrapped up above Cambridge with dinner arriving at the table, the city’s ancient rooftops illuminated beyond the glass and nowhere else you particularly need to be, the colder weather suddenly feels like rather good news.
@thevarsityhotel | thevarsityhotel.co.uk
Thompsons Ln, Cambridge CB5 8AQ
