I’ll admit it – I walked into NIJŪ with high expectations. Nestled in the heart of Mayfair, this isn’t some hidden, hole-in-the-wall ramen joint; it’s a polished, refined take on katei ryōri, the home-cooked soul food of Japan. And let’s be real – when a restaurant promises “comfort food” in an area where comfort usually means plush velvet seating and a well-dressed maître d’, I was curious to see just how cozy fine dining could get.
First Impressions: Less Flash, More Elegance
The moment I stepped into NIJŪ, I could tell this wasn’t a place that needed to shout for attention. No neon signs, no over-the-top décor—just warm lighting, sleek wooden interiors, and the kind of ambiance that whispers sophistication rather than screams it.
The open sushi counter immediately drew me in. Watching the chefs work was mesmerising; their movements were so precise and fluid, it was like watching a master calligrapher at work – except, instead of ink on paper, they were wielding knives and delicate slices of fish. I had barely settled into my seat before I knew: I was in for an evening to remember.
The Food: Home Cooking, But Make It Mayfair
I started with sushi because, well, how could I not? When a third-generation sushi master like Endo Kazutoshi is in charge, you don’t just skim past the raw fish section. Each piece was a revelation. The otoro nigiri (fatty tuna) was so buttery it practically evaporated on my tongue. The uni (sea urchin) was delicate yet briny, like a fleeting taste of the ocean. Every bite was balanced, clean, and beautifully restrained – nothing overcomplicated, just exceptional ingredients treated with the respect they deserve.
But what really sets NIJŪ apart is its embrace of katei ryōri, the kind of dishes that Japanese families gather around at home. Of course, NIJŪ’s take on home cooking isn’t exactly what you’d whip up in your own kitchen – unless your pantry happens to be stocked with Wagyu beef and high-grade konro charcoal.
I ordered the grilled Kobe, and I’m still thinking about it. Perfectly seared, slightly smoky, and melt-in-the-mouth tender, it was the kind of dish that makes you close your eyes after the first bite. Rich but not overwhelming, indulgent without being heavy – it was everything I wanted it to be.
Then came the rice dishes, and let me tell you, I have never been this emotionally invested in a bowl of rice before. Fluffy, fragrant, and subtly seasoned, it was comfort in its purest form. The Wagyu beef tartare with tama miso, pickled wasabi and shokupan? Enough to convert any vegetarian.
The Drinks: A Masterclass in Japanese Craftsmanship
A great meal deserves a great drink, and NIJŪ’s bar menu does not disappoint. The sake selection was impressive – ranging from delicate, floral notes to bold, full-bodied pours. Not sure which one to choose? The staff are more than happy to guide you (and if you’re lucky, they might just let you taste a few).
But it was the cocktails that stole the show. Japanese ingredients like yuzu, shiso, and umeshu were woven seamlessly into each drink, creating cocktails that felt light, elegant, and dangerously drinkable. I sipped mine slowly, not just because I wanted to make it last, but because every sip revealed something new.
For a post-dinner wind-down, I slipped downstairs to Nipperkin Bar, a hidden little oasis inspired by Japan’s mid-century listening bars. The dim lighting and impeccably crafted drinks made it the perfect way to end the evening – somewhere between a stylish hideaway and a place where time slows down just enough for you to appreciate it.
Final Verdict: Worth Every Bite (and Every Penny)
NIJŪ isn’t trying to reinvent Japanese cuisine – it doesn’t have to. What it does is take the essence of katei ryōri and elevate it without losing its warmth. It’s comforting but refined, nostalgic but fresh, simple but extraordinary.
It’s the kind of place where every dish feels intentional, every drink is carefully considered, and every detail – down to the soft flicker of candlelight on the wooden tables – makes you want to linger just a little longer.
Would I go back? In a heartbeat. Would I share my Kobe next time? Not a chance.
20 Berkeley St, London W1J 8EE
