Some restaurants whisper their presence, subtly inviting you in. Lita, on the other hand, crackles – both literally and figuratively. From the moment I stepped through its doors on Paddington Street, the warm, smoky scent of open-fire cooking filled the air, setting the stage for an experience that felt both timeless and thrillingly modern.
I had heard the buzz, of course – whispers of a Michelin Star earned in under a year, a menu that shifts with the seasons, and a chef, Luke Ahearne, whose journey from Ireland’s kitchens to London’s fine dining scene reads like a culinary coming-of-age novel. But hype can be misleading. Would Lita truly deliver? I was about to find out.
First Impressions: A Space That Feels Like Home (If Home Had a Michelin Star)
The first thing that struck me about Lita was the glow – not just from the live fire grill, which acts as the restaurant’s beating heart, but from the rich, earthy interior. Designed by B3 Designers – the acclaimed studio behind Gymkhana and Brigadiers, the space blends rustic charm with sleek sophistication.
Reclaimed terracotta floors, exposed wooden beams, and deep red marble countertops create an atmosphere that is somehow both rustic and refined. There’s no stuffy formality here – just the perfect balance of elegance and warmth.
Even Lita’s name carries meaning – it’s a nod to abuelita, the Spanish word for “little grandmother”, reflecting the restaurant’s sense of old-world hospitality, wrapped up in a modern, stylish package.
Seated near the open kitchen, I had a front-row view of the action. Flames flared, pans clattered, and plates landed gracefully on the pass, ready to be whisked away to eager diners. This was cooking as theatre, but without the gimmicks.
A Menu That Speaks in Seasons
Lita’s menu is designed for sharing, which suited me just fine – I wanted to taste as much as possible. With a glass of mineral-driven white wine from a small biodynamic producer in hand (Lita’s wine list is as thoughtful as its food), I dove in.
First up: Pan con tomate with Cantabrian anchovies – a dish so simple yet so perfectly executed that it instantly set the tone for the evening. The bread was charred just enough, the tomatoes bursting with natural sweetness, and the anchovies? Salty, silky, and utterly addictive.
Then came the strozzapreti with Aylesbury duck ragu and 36-month aged Parmesan – a dish that balanced richness and depth without feeling heavy. The pasta had the perfect bite, the ragu was deeply savoury, and the aged Parmesan tied it all together with a sharp, nutty finish.
But my personal favourite? Chopped Hereford beef with Amalfi lemon served with impossibly delicate shoestring fries. This was comfort food, but elevated to Michelin-worthy heights. Rich marbling and depth of flavour makes this the kind of dish that lingers in your memory long after the last bite.
Fire, Meat, and Magic
For the main event, I couldn’t resist the Rib of Galician Beef, grilled over open flames and served with a deeply smoky crust. This is where Lita’s fire-driven cooking truly shines – every bite had that primal, wood-smoked depth, balanced by the tender, perfectly cooked interior. It was simple yet spectacular, which, in many ways, sums up Lita’s entire ethos.
A Sweet Finish
By the time dessert rolled around, I was content but not yet defeated – a testament to how well-balanced the meal had been. The rum baba with charcoal cream Chantilly was an easy choice, and it did not disappoint. The sponge was boozy and light, the cream smoky and unexpected, and together they created a dessert that was both comforting and surprising.
For one final citrusy note, the Amalfi lemon meringue pie delivered tang, sweetness, and the kind of delicate, airy meringue that melts the moment it hits your tongue.
So, Is It Worth the Michelin Star?
Absolutely. Lita isn’t just a restaurant; it’s an experience – one that balances fire and finesse, tradition and innovation, warmth and precision. From the fabulous staff to the exquisite food and wine, this marvel truly deserves every accolade, and then some. There’s nothing pretentious about it, yet every element – from the hyper-seasonal menu to the intimate yet buzzing atmosphere – feels intentional.
As I stepped out into the Marylebone night, I found myself already planning my return. Lita has that effect on you; it draws you in, feeds you well, and leaves you craving more.
7-9 Paddington St, London W1U 5QH
