Terra by Carlo Cracco – where the grill makes the final say. On the upper floor of Eataly London, above the noise and clatter of market shopping, espresso machines and Liverpool Street Station. The wood-fired grill is the centrepiece – and each dish uses it to perfection. Just solid heat, and a team working from the playbook of Carlo Cracco, one of Italy’s most respected chefs.
The “Culinary Experience” tasting menu is a rotating four-course line-up. It’s built around what’s in season, cooked over fire, and served with bottomless drinks. Not bad, considering you can still hear the Central line rumbling below.
Antipasto
It started with bruschetta al salmone – a thick-cut sourdough base, grilled properly, topped with smoked salmon. Straightforward and clean. Then came burrata in bagna cauda, where things got more layered. A large soft burrata, surrounded by a rich confit garlic and anchovy cream. Creamy, salty, sharp, hot, cold – all there, all balanced.
Primo
Fregola ai gamberi was next. The Sardinian pasta – small, round, lightly toasted – sat in a deep prawn bisque that had clearly taken its time. Cherry tomato and basil cut through the richness without pulling focus. A quiet standout.
Secondo
Then: polpo all’arrabbiata. The octopus came charred and tender, not an easy combination. It was laid over mash, with heat coming from an n’duja base and a little basil for lift. Not showy. Just well thought through.
Dolce
Dessert kept things tight: tartelletta meringata al limone. A shortcrust base, tart lemon curd, and a dome of flamed meringue – more texture than sweetness. Uncomplicated, and the better for it.
There’s no pretence here. Terra isn’t trying to reinvent Italian food. It’s taking the best parts – fire, timing, restraint – and getting them right. The dishes might change with the season, but the approach stays the same. Let the grill speak, and everything else falls into place.
