There’s something about Bath that keeps people coming back. Speak to anyone who’s ventured to this beautiful city and chances are, they’ll have nothing but good things to say. Famed for its mineral-rich thermal waters, Georgian architecture and rich history, Bath has long been a favourite for spa lovers, culture seekers, foodies and shoppers.
And that’s exactly what makes it so appealing: Bath has a little bit of everything. It’s a city that keeps pulling visitors back time and time again, whether it’s for a girls’ weekend, a culture-filled escape or simply an excuse to eat, shop and soak. So, when we heard that the Francis Hotel had undergone a £15 million renovation and opened its brand-new spa this spring, we knew it was time to check in.
Set on Queen Square, the Francis Hotel occupies seven interconnected Georgian townhouses, dating back to the 1880s, giving the hotel a distinctly Bath feel from the moment you arrive. You’re welcomed by long-serving doorman Alex, who is incredibly knowledgeable about all things Bath, from the history of the hotel to the best views in the city and, of course, where to find a very good cream tea.
Inside, the 98 individually decorated rooms feel cosy and comfortable, with a regal colour palette of deep green, cherry and blue, dark wood panelling and statement floral headboards. Many overlook Queen Square, making people-watching from your window rather tempting. Jane Austen fans will feel particularly at home, with people dressed in Regency-era attire regularly wandering around Queen Square outside the hotel.
The rooms come with all the little details you want from a city hotel: a Roberts radio if you fancy some Classic FM to set the mood, a coffee machine with fresh milk in the fridge (no long-life milk here), a mini fridge stocked with complimentary kombucha and even a GHD hairdryer.
The bathrooms are petite but perfectly formed, with gleaming floor-to-ceiling tiles in a neutral palette and an oversized walk-in shower.
And then there’s the location. You’re just a few minutes’ walk from some of Bath’s biggest attractions, including the Jane Austen Centre and Frankenstein: The Museum of Anatomy, while the picturesque Royal Crescent – that sweeping row of Grade I-listed Georgian townhouses is also just a steep power walk up the hill away. Sally Lunn’s historic eating house, Bath Abbey and the Roman Baths are all nearby, too.
And let’s not get started on the shopping. You’ll find everything from independent boutiques to big names including The White Company, Anthropologie, Jo Malone and Aesop, each with its own Bath twist.
When you’re done soaking up all the history Bath has to offer, nothing quite compares to an hour in the newly reinvented spa. Tucked away downstairs, the spa takes inspiration from Bath’s long-standing thermal and wellness rituals, creating a calm space to slow down and switch off.
The spa offering is strong, and at its heart is Bath’s only private thermal experience suite, alongside one of the only KLAFS ESPURO Foam Steam Baths of its kind in the UK. Essentially, it’s a foamy sensory spa ritual that combines warm steam with soft cleansing bubbles – and, yes, it’s every bit as intriguing as it sounds.
There’s also a newly renovated relaxation lounge, complete with an array of infused waters and healthy shots to sample before your treatment.
The treatment menu uses British brand GAIA Skincare alongside high-performance biotech skincare brand QMS Medicosmetics, with everything from muscle-tension-busting massages and Reiki to highly effective facials.Treatments range from 30 minutes to a very tempting 90 minutes if you really want to settle into relaxation mode.
For something a little more immersive, there are several spa rituals to choose from. The unique Cleansing Thermal Ritual is a private 45-minute journey for two, moving from a salt scrub and shower circuit into a steam and bubble experience.
There’s also a private thermal sanctuary, offering an intimate alternative to a communal spa environment, with steam, heat, cleansing bubbles, soothing mud treatments and a shower circuit featuring hot and cold sprays and jets. In other words, there are plenty of reasons to linger here all day.
The spa team are another highlight – friendly, caring and genuinely knowledgeable, making you feel ever so relaxed. And it seems we’re not the only ones impressed. Just a few months after opening, Francis Spa received a five-bubble rating from The Good Spa Guide.
When it comes to food, Emberwood is far more than your average hotel restaurant. The brasserie-style restaurant has become something of a destination in its own right with locals, and it certainly doesn’t feel like a hotel restaurant. The kitchen fiercely champions seasonality, with dishes changing depending on what’s available. Expect classic dishes with an Emberwood twist, including steaks and monkfish, with the chefs mastering the art of live-fire cooking over charcoal.
Although we couldn’t move after our mains, we spotted an old-fashioned dessert trolley making its way through the restaurant. And this, to us, is exactly what a hotel restaurant with genuinely good food is all about. There’s something quite satisfying about eating your way through dinner, taking a few steps upstairs and sinking straight into crisp white linen.
Breakfast is served in Emberwood, too, with a generous help-yourself buffet of hot and cold dishes. Think eggs, sausages, sautéed mushrooms, yoghurt, preserves and plenty of freshly chopped fruit.
After a weekend of spa treatments, good food, shopping and soaking up Bath’s history, the Francis feels like exactly the kind of hotel you want to return to – particularly if you’re craving a weekend that leaves you feeling restored and culture-soaked rather than simply rested.
Francis Hotel, Queen Square, Bath BA1 2HH
