There is something particularly appealing about a restaurant that doesn’t shout about its existence, especially when it happens to be tucked away in one of London’s most conspicuously expensive neighbourhoods. Dinings SW3 sits discreetly on the corner of Walton Street and Lennox Gardens Mews, between Chelsea and Knightsbridge, yet its almost hidden-away location makes it feel rather more a secret you have been let in on than somewhere you have booked for lunch.
Once inside, that sense of discovery continues. Housed in a beautiful Grade I listed former artist’s studio, Dinings SW3 combines Japanese influences with the history and character of the original building, creating something far more interesting than the identikit luxury interiors you might expect from an SW3 address.
Beautiful interiors and a hidden Knightsbridge courtyard
Warm wood, rich russet leather, contemporary art and Japanese detailing create a relaxed but luxurious dining room, while the open sushi counter lets you watch the chefs at work. The extraordinary wooden centrepiece is impossible to miss. An enormous, intricately carved fireplace dominates one side of the room and was apparently a gift from the Churchill family to the artist who once occupied the building. There is also a more intimate lower-level dining area and a pretty courtyard terrace, which feels wonderfully removed from the bustle of nearby Knightsbridge.
Chef Masaki Sugisaki and the story behind Dinings SW3
Executive Chef and co-owner Masaki Sugisaki grew up in Saitama, north of Tokyo, where his family ran a traditional Kaiseki restaurant, and began working there at just 15. After spending time in both London and Tokyo, where he mastered the art of sushi, he returned to the capital as part of the opening team at Nobu Berkeley Street before opening Dinings SW3 in 2017. His involvement with the ingredients he serves goes considerably further than simply choosing good suppliers. Masaki regularly travels to Devon and Cornwall, spending time with the fishermen and even going out on their day boats to see exactly how the seafood he uses is caught.
That relationship is also behind Dinings SW3’s “Gill-to-Tail” philosophy, which aims to use as much of every fish as possible rather than discarding less obvious cuts.
Sushi, sashimi and daily specials at Dinings SW3
The food combines authentic Japanese cooking with European influences and is designed predominantly for sharing, so this is a restaurant where I would recommend ordering several things and letting everyone dive in. Our lunch included beautifully fresh sashimi, followed by a steamed mini Wagyu burger bun, which brought something altogether richer and more indulgent to the table. A sake-steamed chicken salad, mixed in front of us with a creamy vinaigrette, was light and fragrant. Then came the Cornish red chicken udon noodles, served with Dinings’ own Umami Chilli Oil. This proved to be a dangerous discovery. Made with chilli and peanut oil, it has an addictive savoury heat that I found myself wanting to put on everything. Thankfully, you can. Dinings has a small shop selling its own sauces and condiments, including the signature Umami Chilli Oil and house-blended Tsukuri Soy Sauce, so naturally a jar of the former came home with me, so I can re-create a tiny piece of this fabulous meal at home for as long as the jar lasts!
It is also worth asking about the daily specials, particularly given Masaki’s relationship with his suppliers and the restaurant’s emphasis on using seafood when it is at its best.
Cocktails, Japanese flavours and brilliant service
The bar at the entrance is a destination in its own right, serving sake alongside cocktails with Japanese and seasonal influences. The drinks are cleverly balanced, so they complement the delicate flavours of the food rather than bulldozing their way through them, making a cocktail a very good place to start.
For all the provenance, craftsmanship and serious culinary credentials, Dinings SW3 manages not to feel remotely stiff. The service was fantastic, knowledgeable without being overbearing and genuinely enthusiastic about explaining the dishes, ingredients and stories behind them. It is an important distinction in this part of London, where high-end restaurants can occasionally become so polished that you feel you ought to sit up straighter.
Dinings SW3 is far more interesting than somewhere you would visit solely for raw fish. Masaki’s Japanese heritage and experience, his extraordinary relationship with British fishermen and produce, the daily specials and playful dishes make the menu feel distinctive rather than formulaic. Add beautiful interiors, that extraordinary fireplace, a hidden courtyard, excellent cocktails and wonderfully warm service, and Dinings SW3 feels like a genuine Knightsbridge find. Just make sure you leave with the chilli oil.
Dinings SW3: Need to know
Address: Walton House, Lennox Gardens Mews, Walton Street, London SW3 2JH
Telephone: 020 3597 9706
@dinings_sw3 | diningssw3.co.uk
Executive Chef/Co-owner: Masaki Sugisaki
