Richard Mille’s latest collection seamlessly blends the appeal of minimalist design with the mechanical intricacy of haute horology. True to the brand’s innovative spirit, the RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire timepieces retain the signature design of the original model, where the movement is showcased through a coloured sapphire prism.
In 2015, Richard Mille pioneered the bold concept of crafting watch cases entirely from coloured sapphire. Today, the RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire collection expands with four new iterations, including the introduction of a striking lilac hue, alongside reimagined gem-set dials.
At the heart of this crystalline masterpiece lies a mesmerising dial, featuring impeccably symmetrical geometric patterns and sophisticated aesthetics—a tribute to the craftsmanship of master gem-setters. The stones adorning the watch reflect light across every facet of the sapphire case, embellishing the dial, bezel, and flange. A cabochon further enhances the crown’s elegance. This collection combines precious gemstones, such as brilliant-cut diamonds, deep blue sapphires, and radiant yellow sapphires, with ornamental stones like orange spessartite, white agate, opal, and various shades of green tsavorite, chrysoprase, and malachite.
Behind the dazzling exterior lies remarkable engineering. Encased in sapphire, the CRMA5 in-house skeletonised automatic movement powers the watch with hours and minutes displayed. Its variable-geometry rotor allows the winding mechanism to adapt to the wearer’s activity by adjusting two small weights. This compact calibre offers a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. The baseplate and bridges, crafted in red or white gold depending on the version, are meticulously microblasted and hand-chamfered. The red gold oscillating weight is adorned with diamonds, elevating the design’s luxury appeal.
The use of sapphire at Richard Mille reflects both the brand’s technical mastery and its commitment to excellence. The iconic tonneau-shaped case presents unique challenges due to its curved lines, which enhance ergonomics and comfort. These curves, however, demand additional time and precision throughout every stage of the process—from pre-production and machining to finishing.
Sapphire’s unforgiving nature leaves no room for error, particularly during cutting. With a hardness rating of 9 on the Mohs scale—just below diamond—working with sapphire requires over 1,000 hours of machining. Of this, 430 hours are dedicated to shaping the case components, and 350 hours to polishing. The front and rear bezels are treated with an anti-reflective coating to ensure optimal clarity.
The creation of coloured sapphire cases is even more complex. These vibrant hues are achieved by incorporating metal oxides into the crystalline lattice of the material. Coloured crystals, however, are more sensitive to the heating and growth process than their transparent counterparts. Developing a new shade, such as lilac, involves countless trials to achieve the perfect hue.
Gem-setting in sapphire cases is an engineering marvel. Precision laser drilling, or mitraillage, is used to create microscopic holes for the stones, accurate to the nearest micron. Hand-polished gold prongs are then inserted to secure the diamonds, creating intricate and graceful settings.
This collection represents an uncompromising pursuit of refinement and technical artistry. The RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire is limited to just seven pieces for each of the four versions: gem-set pink sapphire, lilac sapphire, green sapphire, and gem-set green sapphire.
